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PS Waverley from Clacton-on-Sea Pier, Essex

A wonderful autumn cruise aboard the historic PS Waverley, the world's last seagoing passenger paddle steamer. Sailing from Clacton-on-Sea along the Essex coast and up the River Orwell to Ipswich, we enjoyed beautiful scenery and views of Harwich, Felixstowe docks and the Orwell Bridge.

Clacton-on-Sea, Essex

Historic PS Waverley paddle steamer sailing on the water during an excursion along the Essex coast.

Our visit

PS Waverley is a Clyde steamer, the last seagoing passenger-carrying paddle steamer in the world. Built in 1946, she sailed from Craigendoran on the Firth of Clyde to Arrochar on Loch Long until 1973. Bought by the Paddle Steamer Preservation Society (PSPS), she has been restored to her 1947 appearance and now operates passenger excursions around the British coast.

This was our first excursion on this delightful steamer and we were not disappointed. We had heard of the Waverley on various television programmes and when, accidentally, we heard that it was operating cruises in the Thames Estuary, we investigated further and were very lucky to get booked onto one of the last trips of the year from Gravesend, via Southend and Clacton, to Ipswich and back to Clacton on the River Orwell. We boarded the vessel at Clacton which was an easy journey for us. The excursion ended there and buses were laid on for those whose trip had originated from Southend and Gravesend.

It was a beautiful autumn day for our cruise, the North Sea being like a mill pond. We travelled smoothly alongside the coast, passing Holland-on-Sea, Frinton-on-Sea, Walton-on-the-Naze, noting the picturesque beach huts, and the historic Naze Tower, until we reached the confluence of the Rivers Stour and Orwell at Harwich Haven.

As we sailed past Walton, we could see in the distance from the starboard side of the steamer the outline of a 'tower' in the North Sea. The tower is, in fact, HM Fort Roughs (Roughs Tower), situated on Roughs Sands, a sandbar located approximately 13 km from the Essex coast. It is a Maunsell Sea Fort which was decommissioned after WW2 and, in 1967, was occupied and claimed as a 'sovereign state' by Paddy Roy Bates, known as the Principality of Sealand.

As we approached Harwich, we could see the spire of St Nicholas church in the centre of the town's historic district around Ha'penny Pier. The port of Harwich is a must-see destination for history lovers as it is the place where the Mayflower ship is believed to have been built and where its captain, Christopher Jones, lived and was twice wed at St Nicholas church, which was rebuilt in 1821.

At this point, the Waverley followed the River Orwell upstream to Ipswich. From Harwich, there is an excellent view of the Port of Felixstowe (see also our previous visit to Shotley Gate). We are as fascinated by the workings of this, one of the United Kingdom's largest container ports, as we are by the history of Harwich.

Operating since 1875, the port now comprises two main container terminals and is capable of accommodating post-Panamax vessels including Maersk Triple E class ships. It also maintains its own port police, fire, and ambulance services. Seeing the massive cranes working to a strict timetable loading and off-loading containers which have just arrived from or are about to embark on a voyage across the world is riveting (pardon the pun!).

After Felixstowe, we sailed by Pin Mill, a charming hamlet on the south bank of the Orwell, noticing the delightful and historic Butt & Oyster pub, which we have frequented.

As we sailed further up the river, the wonderful Orwell Bridge came into view. Completed in 1982, it carries the A14 dual carriageway across the Orwell valley. The bridge has a length of 1287 metres (about four-fifths of a mile) and is 24m (80 feet) wide. At 190m (623ft) its central span is the longest single span of prestressed concrete in the UK.

We have driven over the bridge many times and notice that when in a car, the tall parapets on either side prevent you from seeing the river or surrounding landscape - a good idea, in our opinion, as the stunning views would otherwise be very distracting for drivers!

As we arrived at the Port of Ipswich, the Waverley turned and retraced its journey, giving more time to study more closely the landscape and all the features along the way. We took advantage in the last half hour of going into the lounge/dining room for a relaxing drink, avoiding the wind that was beginning to make itself known on the top deck!

Good to know

It was a beautiful calm day when we sailed although there was some wind near the end so we left our perch on the top deck to the lounge. Flat shoes are a must!

Getting around

There were a number of crew members and very helpful volunteers to assist with access.

PS Waverley paddle steamer excursion timetable showing details of the cruise from Clacton-on-Sea. Information board on Clacton Pier titled 'Pier into the Past', describing the history of paddle steamers visiting the pier. Wide wooden walkway along Clacton Pier, with railings, lampposts and visitors beneath a cloudy sky. Steamer landing platform at Clacton Pier, with metal railings, mooring chains and views across the North Sea. PS Waverley approaching Clacton-on-Sea Pier to dock and collect passengers for the cruise. Coastal views of Holland-on-Sea in Essex from the deck of PS Waverley. Looking towards the coastline at Frinton-on-Sea from PS Waverley during the River Orwell excursion. View of the Essex coastline around Walton-on-the-Naze from aboard PS Waverley. Distant view of Roughs Tower, also known as the Principality of Sealand, standing offshore in the North Sea. Enlarged view of Roughs Tower, the former Second World War sea fort known as the Principality of Sealand. The spire of St Nicholas Church rising above the historic town of Harwich, viewed from the water. The historic Butt and Oyster pub at Pin Mill on the banks of the River Orwell in Suffolk. Approaching the impressive Orwell Bridge aboard PS Waverley as it spans the River Orwell near Ipswich. Looking up at the mast of PS Waverley as the paddle steamer approaches the underside of Orwell Bridge. View looking upwards as PS Waverley passes safely beneath the concrete structure of Orwell Bridge. The mast of PS Waverley emerging from beneath Orwell Bridge after the paddle steamer passes through. View of Orwell Bridge across the River Orwell from the deck of PS Waverley, with the ship's funnel and wake in the foreground. Large COSCO Shipping container vessel alongside MSC Olivia at the Port of Felixstowe, surrounded by stacked containers and towering dockside cranes. Side view of Orwell Bridge spanning the River Orwell near Ipswich, showing its tall concrete supports above the riverbank.

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